Circling in on Paris’ Arc de Triomphe

Whenever I visit Paris, I have a little ritual. I ask my taxi driver to circle the Arc de Triomphe twice. The driver plunges into the enormous roundabout where twelve major avenues meet beneath one of the city's most imposing monuments. Traffic officers stand at each entrance, almost like referees overseeing a gladiatorial arena, releasing groups of impatient vehicles into the chaos. Each time we enter the circle, I find myself laughing as I watch the madness unfold while my driver remains completely calm and in control.

During the middle of the 19th century, Baron Haussmann undertook an ambitious project to transform Paris into Europe's grandest city. The twelve avenues extending outward from the Arc de Triomphe were an important part of his vision. His plan introduced broad boulevards that crossed the city at angles, with major monuments serving as their focal points. As my taxi races around the traffic circle, however, it becomes clear that Haussmann could never have anticipated the modern automobile.

My driver explains one of the unusual rules governing this famous intersection. If two vehicles collide here, both drivers are regarded as equally responsible. It is apparently the only location in Paris where accidents are not assigned individual blame. Regardless of how the collision happened, insurance companies divide the expenses equally between the drivers. As my cabbie puts it, a skilled Parisian driver comes away with scratches rather than dents.

A Traffic Circle Like No Other

The stream of vehicles seems to converge on the monument at the center as though paying tribute to the national character of France. Cars entering the roundabout have priority, while vehicles already traveling around it are expected to give way. Parisian motorists weave through the circle with the precision of objects orbiting a star, following sweeping curved paths through the traffic.

It can feel like a giant game of chicken involving bumpers. Tiny Citroën 2CVs, with their canvas roofs opened up like the lids of sardine tins, can suddenly force massive buses to stop, often accompanied by plenty of angry shouting.

When traffic finally slows on the inner lane, I take advantage of the brief pause. I pay the driver and jump out of the taxi. He continues on his way, while I am left standing beneath one of Europe's most magnificent arches at the western end of the Champs-Élysées, arguably Paris's grandest boulevard.

A Monument to France

Every time I return to the Arc de Triomphe, I am reminded of France's extraordinary history and national pride. Sculpted figures climb dramatically across the monument, including marble representations of Liberty wielding swords and appearing to cry out above the endless stream of traffic below. The entire city seems to be pulled toward this monumental center, caught in the same enormous urban whirlpool.

The Arc de Triomphe also provides one of the finest elevated views of Paris, but visitors must earn it by climbing its 284 steps. Construction began in 1806, with Napoleon intending the monument to commemorate the soldiers who fought for him. They had achieved a remarkable victory against the heavily outnumbered Austrian forces at the Battle of Austerlitz.

Napoleon himself never lived to see the completed monument. The Arc was eventually finished in time for his remains to return to Paris in 1840. Nineteen years after his death in exile on the island of Saint Helena, his body was transported through the city in an elaborate procession and carried beneath the monumental arch that had been built in his honor.

A Symbol of French Military History

The Arc de Triomphe is not dedicated solely to Napoleon. Instead, it commemorates the glory of all French armies. Like the triumphal arches of ancient Rome, it has served as a ceremonial entrance for victorious armies, whether French or foreign, and has provided the setting for significant national events.

Its history also reflects some of Europe's darkest moments. Between 1940 and 1944, during the German occupation of Paris, a huge swastika was displayed on the monument while Nazi troops marched down the Champs-Élysées. In August 1944, the scene was dramatically transformed when Allied forces marched beneath the arch following the liberation of Paris.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Standing beneath the monument, visitors are surrounded by inscriptions commemorating French military victories since the Revolution. The names of celebrated French generals are also carved into its walls, with those who died in battle identified by underlining their names.

At the center lies France's Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Its eternal flame burns quietly beneath the enormous arch, almost strangely peaceful despite the constant roar of traffic surrounding it. The flame provides an opportunity to pause and reflect on the monument's deeper meaning as a symbol of French nationalism and remembrance.

During one of my visits, I spoke with a French veteran of World War II who was still wearing his military ribbons. He told me that every evening at 6:30 p.m., a ceremony takes place in which the flame is rekindled and fresh flowers are placed at the tomb. The tradition has continued since shortly after the end of World War I.

Climbing Above Paris

Reaching the top of the Arc de Triomphe feels almost like standing on the summit of Paris. From this historic viewpoint, the city spreads out in every direction, and one of its most impressive perspectives follows the enormous central axis running through the heart of the capital.

Looking east, the line extends from the Louvre through the Champs-Élysées and directly to the Arc de Triomphe. Continuing west, Avenue de la Grande-Armée carries the axis toward a distant collection of skyscrapers surrounding an even larger modern arch in the suburban district of La Défense.

Paris and Its Carefully Preserved Skyline

The high-rise buildings around La Défense create a striking contrast with the relatively low buildings that dominate central Paris. Much of the city's visual beauty is not simply a gift of nature. Paris sits in a largely flat basin crossed by the Seine, and much of its distinctive appearance has been deliberately shaped by generations of urban planning.

One of the secrets behind the city's elegance is the carefully maintained relationship between the width of its major boulevards and the height, proportions, and architectural character of the surrounding buildings. This balance gives central Paris its remarkably unified skyline.

Only a handful of structures dramatically interrupt that visual harmony. Historic domes and the Eiffel Tower rise prominently above the rooftops, while the solitary Montparnasse Tower stands out for very different reasons. Its dark, rectangular form has often been compared to the box in which the Eiffel Tower might have arrived.

The construction of Montparnasse Tower in the early 1970s became something of a warning for Paris. Its appearance helped encourage stronger efforts to protect the historic character and low-rise skyline of the city center from future developments.

Watching Paris from Above

From the top of the Arc de Triomphe, you can look down and see the extraordinary traffic circle that you somehow managed to survive on the way there. Vehicles continue weaving through the enormous roundabout, navigating toward their chosen exits and then disappearing into the streets of Paris.

From this height, the chaos looks almost organized. Cars sweep around the circle, somehow avoiding major collisions and leaving with little more than an occasional scratch. Beneath the monument, the traffic continues its endless movement, while Paris stretches outward in every direction, waiting to be explored.